Here’s a post on how to set-up the water system for the iStill One. Now, contrairy to the iStill 50/250 range, the iStill One does not need cooling water for a column cooler. It needs cooling water for the product cooler only. You know, that big tank, mounted to the stairs at the left side of the iStill One?
Here’s how we want you to install the cooling water.
First, it is important to cool counter flow. Gasses come down, so “counter flow” means that the cooling water needs to travel upwards. Cold, fresh cooling water therefore needs to enter the product cooler at the bottom. Used, old, “spent” cooling water exits the product cooler from the top. Counter flow cooling increases total cooling capacity by 50%, that’s why.
But there is more to take into consideration. Given the fact that the iStill One is fired with the equivalent of around 100 BHP, and knowing that the agitator – after reduction – adds another 20 BHP, it is easy to realize the amount of power is pretty steep. 120 BHP will get your car to 100 MPH without trouble.
That’s why we want the iStill One to have a permanent and hard wired water cooling system. Copper or SS tubes for water in and for water out. Hozes will do the job, but what if a hoze bends or someone steps on it? Running your car at 100 MPH without cooling is not a good idea.
There should be one leaver controlling water flow. On the water in side. If you open it water flows in (and out). If you close it, the cooling water flow stops. One leaver is better than two (one for water in and the other for water out), because it is easier to operate. Less things to manage equals less things one can screw up, right?
Last, but not least: make sure the cooling water flow that enters and exits the product cooler is always at its maximum setting. The temperature of “Water In” should not exceed 15 degrees C, the temperature of “Water Out” should be as low as 20 degrees C.
Here’s a picture of the perfect, hard-wired water system to the iStill One: